
On Monday, Apr. 22, Hamilton hosted Steve Swenson, one of America’s most renowned Himalayan mountaineers. Swenson, in his fifth decade of climbing, gave an engaging lecture — enhanced by captivating pictures of his climbs — on his book,
Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict
.
Swenson has made over 50 major expeditions around the globe, including an ascent of K2 and a solo ascent of Everest — both without supplementary oxygen. Further, he is known for his technical first ascents, many of which are based in the Karakoram mountain range in the Kashmir region, which spans parts of Pakistan, India, and China.
The Kashmir region, although home to some of the world’s most magnificent peaks, is also the source of an ongoing conflict. Each of the three countries it spans claim control of the entire region, which has led to militarized borders and, as a consequence, strict restrictions for climbers. Swenson spoke of the turmoil that surrounds the region, highlighting the political strife, but also noted that as certain areas that were previously closed off to climbers begin to open up, new opportunities for first ascents arise.
His first ascent of Saser Kangri II emerged out of one such incident, as the Kashmir conflict had previously rendered the peak inaccessible. This ascent represented a monumental achievement for Swenson and his team, given that the peak was previously the second highest unclimbed mountain, after Gangkhar Puensum (which is closed off for religious reasons.) Swenson acknowledged the unique privilege of “walking in a place no one’s ever been before.”
While his talk was full of incredible stories — such as peeling away from his group to ascend Everest alone — and beautiful images — a lush green valley framed by two enormous mountain ranges comes to mind — there was an undercurrent to Swenson’s talk which required the audience to understand his failures and appreciate the lessons he has learned in his travels. Adversity is instrumental for Swenson, who referenced his “decade of failures” in the Karakoram range that ultimately led to his first ascent there. He emphasized the many attempts required to summit each mountain, as well as the need to know one’s limits as a climber. Swenson gave one anecdote about a friend, Phil Ershler, who turned around just 300 meters from the summit of K2 because he felt he wouldn’t reach it by his turn-around time. He paused for a moment on another picture, saying, “One of the things I like about this picture is that everyone is still alive.”
Swenson recognized his ascent of Everest as a turning point in his mountaineering career, as the “experience would change everything [he] would do afterward.” He explained that he was offered a free spot on the trip by the guide who was supposed to get Sandy Pittman to the summit. Pittman gained notoriety as one of the survivors of the 1996 Everest disaster (the story behind
Into Thin Air
.) However, before that trip, she garnered a corporate sponsorship for an attempt to climb the difficult Kangshung Face, a trek which would include Swenson. He ultimately left the group when he realized Pittman was unfit for the route and the experience eventually turned him off sponsored climbing altogether. Swenson maintains that his love for “exploration had nothing to do with goals, it was about seeking the unknown.” From then on, he committed himself to new, unclimbed routes where he could avoid tourists and climbers who didn’t share his values.
Even now, at 65, Swenson is still climbing. He plans to head out again this June for his second attempt at another unclimbed peak in Pakistan. Now climbing with people half his age, Swenson said he feels lucky for the opportunity to continue do what he loves.
In a fitting manner, he closed his talk, and his book, with another anecdote about one of the “young guys.” After they wrapped up their most recent expedition in 2017, Graham Zimmerman, an EMT, stopped to help a little boy in Pakistan who had broken his arm. Graham managed to distract the boy and put a smile on his face while fixing his arm into a splint. Swenson said that it was moments like these, as opposed to his daring summits, which provided “the inspiration to lead this life of exploration.”
