Charlotte Post ‘27
Bella Regina’s award-winning chicken riggies was served in a rich, creamy sauce.
Back on the night before my Hamilton move-in, I was both excited and nervous about my college journey ahead—a new place, new people and the intimidating prospect of going camping for the first time. But I also began to realize that coming to Hamilton meant discovering new food. That Monday night, my family and I sat down at one of the few open restaurants: Delmonico’s Italian Steakhouse. As we opened our menus, my mom asked, “What are chicken riggies?” She looked intrigued and said, “I think I’m going to try them!” Little did I know that chicken riggies would soon become a staple in my diet, and that behind Utica’s specialty dishes lies a rich and fascinating history.
Every region in upstate New York has signature dishes that represent the cultures of the people who built its communities. Immigration has been a major force in shaping the area’s diverse food scene. According to June Hersh, author of the book, “The Flavor of Upstate New York: Iconic dishes, delicious history and reinvented recipes,” Italian immigrants have shaped Utica and Rome, resulting in dishes like chicken riggies.
Believe it or not, chicken riggies was not invented in Utica, but right here in Clinton! According to the late Michael Geno, renowned Executive Chef of Aqua Vino Restaurant in New Hartford and the ‘Godfather’ of Utica cuisine, “the dish was created at the Clinton House in Clinton.” The Clinton House was an Italian favorite back in the 70s and 80s owned by chefs Richie Scamardo and Bobby Hazleton. Geno remembered that, in 1979, “The doctors, lawyers and union guys would come in on Monday nights to play cards and we would make them the ‘riggie dish’ with chicken, tomatoes and cherry peppers. When they came back the next week, they wanted the same thing we made them the week before. And there you have it—the birth of chicken riggies.”
However, many believe that chicken riggies did not become famous until they made their way onto Utica menus. Chefs in the Utica area shared different stories about the dish’s origins and how it spread. For example, Chef Mike Schulz is certain that he should take credit. In the 1980s, Schulz was the dishwasher at the Clinton House and eventually worked his way to be a line cook alongside Bobby Hazleton. Schulz then began working at Hazleton’s restaurant on Bleeker Street in Utica where Hazleton would make riggies. Eventually, Schulz became the head chef at the new Chesterfield Restaurant, where he added chicken riggies to the menu and the dish became widely known.
Jeff Daniels of Daniele’s at Valley View in Utica has a different perspective. He said that a lot of the credit for how chicken riggies started is owed to his father, Jeff Daniels Sr., who owned the family restaurant, Cafe Daniele’s on James and Mohawk Streets. According to Daniels, “We had a tenderloin tips dish at Cafe Daniele’s back in 1986 and I wanted a chicken version of that which was just like the chicken riggies recipe we know today, and we called it ‘Chicken Caprice.’’’
He said that one night, a customer “wanted pasta with something that was healthy, so, my father put Chicken Caprice over the rigatoni pasta and that’s how we believe the dish was started.”
Joe Morelle, the chef who invented Utica greens (keep reading to learn more about this equally famous dish), shared insight into how chicken riggies got its name. He said that he remembers the pasta dish on the menu at Anthony’s on Mohawk Street as far back as 1984 and that Chef Dick Vatalero served the dish. According to Morelle, Vatalero said that he didn’t know what to name the dish so Chef Joey Pristera came up with ‘chicken riggies’ because it combines chicken and rigatoni pasta!
Although chicken riggies is a universally known dish in the Utica region, it takes on different interpretations. It’s usually prepared with rigatoni pasta, chicken breast, tomatoes, hot and/or sweet peppers, mushrooms and lots of Pecorino Romano cheese. Tailor and the Cook, a more upscale farm-to-table restaurant located by the historic train station in Utica, does their riggies their own way, using chicken thighs instead of breasts.
The original recipe did not include heavy cream, as the creaminess comes from the cheese. However, many chefs have long been using heavy cream in their recipes such as at restaurant Bella Regina. In 23 years, owner Regina Piacentino has never changed her recipe. “Chicken riggies is a Utica thing. Everyone serves ‘em and makes ‘em different. Mine are creamy. Every customer that comes in here, I feel like they’re eating at my house. They’re family,” she said.
As I learned more about chicken riggies and became eager to try a “real” version outside of Hamilton, I decided to venture to Utica. After doing some research, I found a Yelp page where many locals agreed that the best chicken riggies in town were served at Bella Regina. When my friend and I arrived at the restaurant, we were warmly greeted by a hostess who let us know we would have to wait a few minutes for the next available table. Inside, the place felt like the basement of a grandmother’s house—cluttered, cozy and full of character. It was an eclectic blend of American nostalgia and Roman Italian charm.
The walls were covered with retro Hollywood posters of stars like Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra. Roman statues stood next to boxes of uncooked pasta, and a sign proudly declared, “Thank God I’m Italian.” Plants of all shapes and sizes filled the space, giving it a greenhouse-like feel. Other quirky touches included a popcorn machine, a rocking chair and a small lamp that looked just like the famous leg lamp from “A Christmas Story.” A neon sign lit up with the message “Utica Club,” and another poster read, “Wine and Dine.” Meanwhile, 60s music played softly in the background. The restaurant’s “old-school charm” truly felt like stepping into another era.
When we finally sat down in the lively dining area, we were surrounded by customers of all ages, from small babies to elderly couples. There appeared to be only two people working the front of house, and with the dining room so busy, the service was slow.
The menu at Bella Regina is massive, featuring an extensive selection of Italian dishes. There are over 20 appetizers, along with a wide variety of chicken and veal options, seafood, eggplant, salads, sides and of course, plenty of pasta. When I came across the section titled “Our Award-Winning Riggies,” I knew I was in the right place. Bella Regina offers just about every riggie combination you can think of: fried chicken, shrimp, vegetables, meatballs, seafood, steak, pepperoni and more. We decided to keep it simple and ordered the classic chicken riggies.
We were given a complimentary tomato pie appetizer, which was a delightful surprise. The waiter set it down abruptly without introducing or explaining the dish. The best part of the dish was the warm tomato sauce that was sweet, slightly tangy and a bit acidic, layered over the rustic and crisp pizza bread. It tasted like home—cozy and comforting. The sprinkle of Parmesan on top added an enjoyable savory note.
We ordered the Utica greens—or as they call them there, “Bella Greens”—a local take on escarole. Utica greens are a well-known classic dish in the area. “The Italian immigrants who lived here were used to having gardens in their backyards at home. Escarole was one of the things they planted. It grew very easily here,” explained author and food historian June Hersh. While Bella Regina offers options to add sausage and potatoes or chicken and mozzarella, we kept it simple and were pleasantly surprised by how flavorful and perfectly complete the dish was. The escarole was not bitter like I usually find it to be, and the breadcrumbs and Pecorino cheese added a salty crunch, complementing the leafy, earthy flavor of the greens. The peppers gave it a subtle spicy kick. The Bella Greens were delicious and unlike anything I had ever tasted before.
But my favorite part was eating the greens alongside the chicken riggies. The dish arrived in a giant bowl filled with pasta, chicken, mushrooms and a variety of peppers. The proportions were spot-on with plenty of chicken, mushrooms and peppers, not just pasta. Unlike the tomato-based sauces I had before, these chicken riggies were drenched in an incredibly rich, creamy and cheesy sauce. The sauce was smooth, buttery and luscious. The sharpness of the Pecorino cheese was almost overwhelming, but since I love cheese, I was overjoyed. The peppers added just the right amount of spice to balance the dish.
At first glance, the prices appear rather high at Bella Regina: the greens were almost $18 and the chicken riggies were about $24. However, the serving sizes were absolutely gigantic. The greens came stacked on a giant plate. I honestly believe that three people could happily share one serving of the rich chicken riggies—obviously depending on how hungry you are. We were more than happy to take home plenty of leftovers.
The staff were very friendly. They made sure we had extra plates and utensils to serve and share our food, and they checked in to see how we were enjoying our riggies. I felt welcomed, and it was pleasant to be sitting in a lively environment among people who clearly visit the restaurant often and knew the waitstaff and food well.
Chicken riggies and Utica greens are prime examples of dishes deeply tied to the local identity. They preserve history and showcase the community’s influence on the region’s cuisine, symbolizing shared tradition and connection. While Hamilton may feel somewhat separate from the wider area, it’s important to remember that we’re not far away, and many of these restaurants welcome Hamilton students. Through food, we have a unique opportunity to get to know one another and gain a glimpse into each other’s lives.
Portions of this article are adapted from “Here’s the Recipe, and the Real Story Behind Utica’s Chicken Riggies” by Bill Keeler, published on WIBX on June 14, 2024, and “Exploring the History Behind Some of Upstate New York’s Iconic Dishes” by Shalon Stevens, published on Spectrum News 1 on Sept. 21, 2025.
